Finance

Kohl's didn't just lose its way — it lost its soul. Can it come back?

From household name to retail punchline, Kohl's tries to claw its way back.

Michael Thorpe|
Kohl's didn't just lose its way — it lost its soul. Can it come back?
Photo by Muhammad Khawar Nazir on Pexels

Remember when Kohl's was the place your mom dragged you to for back-to-school shopping? It had a certain rhythm: the dim lighting, the racks of clearance signs, the Kohl's Cash that felt like free money but wasn't. That Kohl's is dead. What's left is a retailer that forgot who it was, chasing trends that weren't its own, alienating the very customers who kept the lights on.

Now, after years of missteps and a stock that's been gutted, the company is trying to remember what made it work in the first place. But here's the uncomfortable truth: you can't just reheat leftovers and call it dinner. Kohl's needs to fundamentally rethink what it means to be Kohl's in 2026.

The Great Betrayal

Kohl's didn't just lose its way. It actively betrayed its core customer. For years, the chain catered to middle-class families — the kind of shoppers who wanted decent quality at a fair price without the chaos of a Walmart or the pretension of a Nordstrom. Then someone in the C-suite decided that wasn't good enough. They wanted to be cool. They wanted to be trendy. They wanted to compete with Target and, laughably, with Amazon.

So they shrank the home goods section — the very department that made Kohl's a destination for towels, bedding, and kitchen gadgets. They stuffed stores with athletic wear and impulse buys. They tried to be everything to everyone and ended up being nothing to anyone. The result? A 40% stock plunge over three years. Store traffic evaporated. The customers who still came felt like ghosts in a store that no longer recognized them.

"We lost sight of who we were," a former executive told me. "We wanted the millennial Instagram customer. But that customer never really showed up."

The Siren Song of Partnerships

One of Kohl's most head-scratching moves was its partnership with Amazon. The deal allowed customers to return Amazon purchases at Kohl's stores. On paper, it seemed smart: get Amazon shoppers through the door, and maybe they'll buy a sweater. In practice, it was a disaster. Kohl's became an Amazon returns depot — a place where people dropped off unwanted junk and left without spending a dime. The foot traffic increased, but the sales per visit cratered.

Meanwhile, Kohl's launched a partnership with Under Armour, then with Fitbit, then with ... who cares? Each partnership diluted the brand further. Kohl's wasn't a destination anymore; it was a pit stop. A rest area on the highway of retail. And no one builds loyalty around rest areas.

The Sephora Gamble

Then came Sephora. In 2021, Kohl's announced it would open Sephora shops inside its stores — 850 of them by 2025. The logic: beauty drives traffic, and Sephora is the gold standard. But here's the problem: Sephora inside Kohl's is like finding a Rolex at a yard sale. It doesn't fit. It feels forced. Kohl's tried to buy its way into relevance, but you can't lease cool.

The Sephora shops are nice, sure. But they didn't fix the fundamental issue. The Kohl's customer isn't the Sephora customer. The Sephora customer goes to Sephora. The Kohl's customer goes to Kohl's for a 40%-off coupon on a toaster. The two worlds don't align, and the result is a store that feels like it's having an identity crisis in every aisle.

The Turnaround Attempt

Now, under new leadership, Kohl's is trying to reverse course. The new CEO has pledged to "return to our roots." Translation: bring back home goods. Cut the fluff. Stop chasing trends that don't stick. They're shrinking the athletic apparel section, expanding kitchen and bedding, and — get this — bringing back the Kohl's Cash in a bigger way. As if Kohl's Cash was ever the problem.

But here's the thing: Kohl's Cash was never the problem. It was the bandage. The problem is that Kohl's lost its identity. You can't fix that with a marketing campaign. You can't fix it with a new logo or a redesigned app. You fix it by being something people actually need. And what people need right now isn't another place to buy the same stuff they can get on Amazon with free two-day shipping.

What Kohl's Needs to Do

If I were running Kohl's — and thank God I'm not — I'd start by admitting something radical: Kohl's is not for everyone. It's for the middle. The forgotten middle class that gets ignored by luxury brands and overlooked by discounters. The people who want quality but can't afford Macy's. The people who want convenience but don't trust Amazon's knockoffs. That's Kohl's lane. And it's a lane no one else owns.

Second, stop trying to be a digital-first retailer. Kohl's is a physical store. Embrace it. Make the stores worth visiting. Add services that online can't replicate: tailoring, gift wrapping, kids' play areas, community events. Turn the store into a destination, not a warehouse.

Third, kill the Amazon returns. It's a parasite that feeds on your floor space and gives nothing back. Invest those square feet in something that sells.

The Verdict

Can Kohl's turn around? Maybe. But the clock is ticking. The retail graveyard is full of brands that thought they could pivot their way out of irrelevance. Sears. JCPenney. Bed Bath & Beyond. Kohl's is one bad quarter away from joining them.

The good news? The need Kohl's once filled still exists. Middle America still wants affordable quality. They still want a store that doesn't make them feel poor or stupid. If Kohl's can remember how to be that — and stop trying to be something else — it might just survive.

But nostalgia alone won't save it. Nostalgia doesn't pay rent. Kohl's needs to stop looking in the rearview mirror and start building something that actually works for the future. Otherwise, the only thing left to return will be the keys.

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